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Thread: stock DMFW = misfires on high HP N54s

              
  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BEAR-AvHistory Click here to enlarge
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    Is your flywheel steel or aluminum?
    aluminum
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  3. #52
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
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    Holding your clutch in at a light is prolly the worst thing you can do for it...it puts pressure on the fingers and puts added stress to the throwout bearing, which will just wear it out sooner, and it would be a joyous occasion to have to go back into the bellhousing to replace a $60 part because you couldnt deal with some noise.
    Well I've been doing it for about 45-50k miles now with this flywheel and haven't noticed any issues at all... so i will continue and replace if necessary some day.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by The Ghost Click here to enlarge
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    I also don't want chatter. Have you done a compression test lately? What fuel/meth are you running?
    I've rebuilt my top end lately Click here to enlarge motor is and has always been solid...fuel is 94 pump gas readily available up here and meth is three 1.0mm nozzles controlled with the Aquamist HFS-4 and its integrated failsafe in a trunk mounted 2.2gal tank...most recently i've been running 90-100% meth
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
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    Holding your clutch in at a light is prolly the worst thing you can do for it...it puts pressure on the fingers and puts added stress to the throwout bearing, which will just wear it out sooner, and it would be a joyous occasion to have to go back into the bellhousing to replace a $60 part because you couldnt deal with some noise.


    I dont get what is so bad about the noise. Ive driven many a Porsche 911 and several GTRs that rattled at idle..I think its the most badass thing when it sounds like you got rocks banging around in the transmission...but then again I eat/sleep/breath road racing so whiney gearboxes/clutch rattles dont bother me. neither do squeaky brakes.
    ^ This.
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    Not to be a naysayer. But really 3 pulls and you are calling an intermittent misfire fixed? Lets wait until the clutch is broke in and you get more like 20-30 pulls on it before we break out the champagne.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
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    Not to be a naysayer. But really 3 pulls and you are calling an intermittent misfire fixed? Lets wait until the clutch is broke in and you get more like 20-30 pulls on it before we break out the champagne.
    Maybe it is a little premature, but the misfire was NEVER intermittent for me. It was ALWAYS guaranteed to occur in 3rd or 4th gear at 6500 rpm WOT. I recreated it about 50+ times, not once did it make it to redline before.

    I did another pull last night and it went to redline. That's 4 times more than I ever got to do before. I'd be very surprised if the misfire returned. Guess we will know for sure in a few days.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335Coupe Click here to enlarge
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    Maybe it is a little premature, but the misfire was NEVER intermittent for me. It was ALWAYS guaranteed to occur in 3rd or 4th gear at 6500 rpm WOT. I recreated it about 50+ times, not once did it make it to redline before.

    I did another pull last night and it went to redline. That's 4 times more than I ever got to do before. I'd be very surprised if the misfire returned. Guess we will know for sure in a few days.
    That's crazy that you've only been able to redline the car 4 times since you've installed the ST. If I had the ST and finally fixed it, I would be redlining every time a road opened up.
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    I guess its not much faster than stock turbos after all Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jpsimon Click here to enlarge
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    aluminum
    I have never had an aluminum flywheel but have run 4 to 6MT's up to 502cu with either cast or steel billet flywheels. Most of the cast wheels were inside of scatter shields but I really do not remember any clutch chatter. I wonder if its an aluminum thing?
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    Can we confirm that the Spec steel SMFW doesn't chatter? Or at least that it is minimal? I don't want to deal with chatter again.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by nafoo Click here to enlarge
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    That's crazy that you've only been able to redline the car 4 times since you've installed the ST. If I had the ST and finally fixed it, I would be redlining every time a road opened up.
    Well I'm still breaking in the clutch. Don't want to risk it. Almost there though.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mj6234 Click here to enlarge
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    Can we confirm that the Spec steel SMFW doesn't chatter? Or at least that it is minimal? I don't want to deal with chatter again.
    I don't think anyone has one installed yet as it was just released.

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    Quick question. Its been a while & I was wondering if they allow high power, low ET, modified engine MT's to run without a scatter shield or ballistic blanket? I added mine because it was both required & I did not think the plastic floor was going to do much for my feet if the clutch blew.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mj6234 Click here to enlarge
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    Can we confirm that the Spec steel SMFW doesn't chatter? Or at least that it is minimal? I don't want to deal with chatter again.
    I read on the other forum that someone installed the Advan steel flywheel with the HPF clutch and it still chattered, less than an aluminum flywheel but there was still some chatter.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
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    I've rebuilt my top end lately Click here to enlarge motor is and has always been solid...fuel is 94 pump gas readily available up here and meth is three 1.0mm nozzles controlled with the Aquamist HFS-4 and its integrated failsafe in a trunk mounted 2.2gal tank...most recently i've been running 90-100% meth
    That's good info, however beyond it feeling solid, I was wondering if you've measures leak-down or compression.

    Turbo motors hide damage very well. I'm sure it's fine, but you don't know until you measure. I do compression tests with every spark if change since I'm already there.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by The Ghost Click here to enlarge
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    That's good info, however beyond it feeling solid, I was wondering if you've measures leak-down or compression.

    Turbo motors hide damage very well. I'm sure it's fine, but you don't know until you measure. I do compression tests with every spark if change since I'm already there.
    Yes, its been measured more than once as well as posted about here with independent as well as dealership results. Not much can hide when you test compression and leakdown before then crack the head open then put the head back on and then do it again right after Click here to enlarge i do my compression and leakdown tests every once in a while, usually when changing plugs

    Not sure I got the comment on turbo motors hiding compression problems but I guess you meant when they're running under WOT. I partially disagree with that as most issues with compression or internal seal/valve issues will be felt right at idle.
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    Aside from the obvious idle / low rpm anomalies dirty valves cause, has anyone been able to determine if crudded up intake valves cause high RPM misfires? I keep getting a high RPM cylinder 6 misfire and I have now changed the plug, coil, and fuel injector (and recoded w/ INPA). The issue happened a couple of times on stock turbos, but I figured it would be remedied as soon as I changed the plugs which were about 2 years old at the time. I have 79000 miles and no valve cleaning that I know of, but not sure how realistic this theory is. That will be the next step, but not getting my hopes up. My car is a 6AT, so not a DMFW issue.

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    I've cleaned my valves and rebuilt the head and had a new OEM DMFW hpf clutch put in and they still happened. Gunked up valves as far as I see it can only obstruct air flow into the combustion chamber (i.e. reduce pumping efficiency as in having a more restrictive head) but I don't see it causing misfires.

    Man this blows that on a 6AT and your specific car with that new setup you're getting them too. Did this just start happening? Is it every pull? This sounds like what hotrod182 had with his 6AT...
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
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    I've cleaned my valves and rebuilt the head and had a new OEM DMFW hpf clutch put in and they still happened. Gunked up valves as far as I see it can only obstruct air flow into the combustion chamber (i.e. reduce pumping efficiency as in having a more restrictive head) but I don't see it causing misfires.

    Man this blows that on a 6AT and your specific car with that new setup you're getting them too. Did this just start happening? Is it every pull? This sounds like what hotrod182 had with his 6AT...
    It happened a couple of times with stock turbos before I took the car apart, but just assumed it was old plugs or too much water in my meth mixture, but now with new plugs and not running any meth/water injection it is still happening. It doesn't happen every time, but definitely happens quite often. Except for once, it has always been on cylinder 6. Either way, the valves need to be done, but I guess a compression test is next...

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335Coupe Click here to enlarge
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    Maybe it is a little premature, but the misfire was NEVER intermittent for me. It was ALWAYS guaranteed to occur in 3rd or 4th gear at 6500 rpm WOT. I recreated it about 50+ times, not once did it make it to redline before.

    I did another pull last night and it went to redline. That's 4 times more than I ever got to do before. I'd be very surprised if the misfire returned. Guess we will know for sure in a few days.
    Hey don't get me wrong. I really hope it did fix it. Because if this was indeed an issue it would have reared its head in our stage 3 as well. Good luck man. I hope its gone. Also any single mass flywheel aluminum or steel will have some chatter. If they say their Steel SM eliminates chatter they are lying to sell product. Just my .02 cents
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
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    Hey don't get me wrong. I really hope it did fix it. Because if this was indeed an issue it would have reared its head in our stage 3 as well. Good luck man. I hope its gone. Also any single mass flywheel aluminum or steel will have some chatter. If they say their Steel SM eliminates chatter they are lying to sell product. Just my .02 cents
    I don't think that's true with EVERY manual transmission. I think it is true with ours up until some unreasonable weight. I will test the steel SMF and video it. Tbh, I would have looked into preloading the gears axially before trying steel, but that's just me.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by redlineryder Click here to enlarge
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    I read on the other forum that someone installed the Advan steel flywheel with the HPF clutch and it still chattered, less than an aluminum flywheel but there was still some chatter.
    Its the nature of manual trans to rattle and as cars got quieter the DMFW was born to lessen the noise. I recall my 5.0 stang days of the 80s and 90s and those T5s did rattle pretty nicely. The cars were so loud from the exhaust and lumpy cam idle I never really heard it much until I turned the engine off and could hear the rattle on shutdown.

    UUC actually wrote a nice article on the various facets around SMFW, LWFW and OEM DMFW and in particular how an oil conconction helps eliminate/lessen the rattle issue in some cars. Worth reading:
    http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/gear_rattle.htm

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    I didn't find the so called UUC cocktail for an oil mix in the tranny reducing effects of rattle noticeably on this car
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
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    I didn't find the so called UUC cocktail for an oil mix in the tranny reducing effects of rattle noticeably on this car
    Last sentenceof the 8th paragraph from the linked UUC page.

    "A change to a slightly heavier grade of transmission fluid (UUC recommends a specific mix of transmission fluids, 1 bottle Redline 75W-140NS and 1 bottle Redline D4 ATF) will eliminate it entirely in some cars, or at least reduce the remaining rattle a subjective 90%.
    "

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    Yes that's what I ran with my clutch masters smfw and nothing noticeably changed let alone eliminated or 90% reduced
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