02-22-2012, 07:55 AM #1
DIY: Injector Swap & Coding! (Detailed)
First of all,
Big Thank You to xbox_fan(bimmerboost.com) for the DIY of swapping the injectors and vasillalov(bimmerboost.com) for posting a DIY for coding the injectors & also helping with whatever questions i had.
xbox_fan Injector Swap: N54 INJECTOR SWAP DIY
vassillalov Injector Coding: N54 INJECTOR CODING DIY + Edibias/INPA/NCSExpert Software download.
Also view his YT video below on how to code 'em.
INJECTOR PART# 13537585261
DECOUPLING ELEMENT PART# 13537564751
^Always buy these two together, as theyre needed when replacing the old one.
USB FOR CODING: BMW INPA / Ediabas K+DCAN USB Interface $99 or you can search and probably find a cheaper one elsewhere, but this is what i have and it works good.
"I only made this thread with a little more detail/wording for people like me that will get frightened to go inside and do it them selves and tried to add some better understanding on what to do or expect when you're taking this project on a DIY, other then that xbox_fan's and vassilalovs DIY are perfectly fine for anyone with a lil bit of mechanical knowledge!!!" -Bes.
I started getting some hesitation/stumble on low rpm's and the car would feel like i'm misfiring badly, but never threw a code no matter how i drove..i tried going wot i tried doing everything to see if i would throw a code but nothing would happen. I had a BMW tech drive my car, and he even agreed that the car feels/is misfiring. I had my plugs changed few months ago and still the same thing.
So i decided to open up the Engine cover to see which style Injectors i have and as it appeared i had 3 New style injectors Part #13537585261 < Were done under a Recall i had late 2011 together with the hpfp. And i had 3 Old injectors since my car was bought i guess...Clynder 456 had the new ones and 123 the old style ones. Contacted TischerBMW and ordered 3 New Injectors Part #13537585261-09 together with 3 Decoupling Elements Part #13537564751..Always order new Decoupling Elements when you buy a new injector as they come seperate!
So i successfully changed and coded the injectors thank's to the diy's posted above, drove the car last night, drove the car today all day no codes no leaks and most importantly my car feels better, car doesnt feel anymore as its misfiring on my 2nd day of changing the old injectors.
Ok, on to changing and coding the Injectors now.
First i took out the Neg from the battery, not sure if this needs to be done,
but i did it since i also needed to route the USB cable for JB4 through the glove box.
Ok now, make sure you have all the tools and INPA fully required/working.
The entire process took me anywhere from 30-1hr, i was just being anal and double checking everything since it was my first time, but now i think i could do it in much less time.
First thing i grabbed a notebook and i wrote down the new Injector numbers and also the old ones as well in case i needed them later. ( See pic below where to find them )
Ok, now take off the cowl completely and take the engine cover off...
Ok now that the cover is off and we can see our injectors, time to get durrty! lol first i decided to take out the Electric connector then slowly loosen up and remove the metal clip that holds injectors together in my case was 1&2, then slowly removed the fuel line, my car was a bit hot since this was like after i only let my car sit for an hour before i decided to do this, so when i loosened up the fuel rail a bit of fuel sprayed but i quickly put a soft cloth on top of it so it doesnt spray on top of my engine, at first i was scared, but only a bit of fuel sprayed and it just evaporated after anyway...just make sure you have something to quickly cover the fuel line from spraying all over.
Ok, now we're ready to Remove the Injector as i stated in the pic below, mildly moved the injector left and right and forcefully just pulled up and it came out pretty quick without using any tools.
Now that the Injector is OUT, time to get our New Injector and put that Baby IN it's home and let it do her thing lol'. Simply slide up the Decoupling Element as you seen how it was on the Old Injector when you took out, And take off the CAP from the new Injector so we can install it.
DO NOT LET THE NEW INJECTOR SIT FOR AMOUNT OF TIME WITH THE CAP OFF!
Now put the New Injector In and Push mildly until its sitting flush, see pic below! You can mildly also hit it with the bottom of a screw driver until it's sitting good.
Now that we installed that time to put everything back in reverse and tighten up good, before you put the cover on..Double check you're work! and put the cover on and you're done Installing them.
INJECTORS INSTALLED AND ELECTRIC CONNECTOR/FUEL LINE/METAL CLIP ALL IN!
PUT THE ENGINE COVER ON AND TAKE OUT UR PC; READY TO CODE THEM!
-------------------CALIBRATE/CODE N54 INJECTORS-----------------
Thank's to vassilalovs DIY...i suggest you click on his DIY and make sure you have all the files correctly installed to run INPA. And also check his YouTube video for a visual understanding on how to code them in correctly.
I will post the steps in here anyway just so to have 'em all in one thread.
1. Connect USB cable to PC and OBD
2. Push START/STOP button in the Car to turn on the Ignition.
3. Fire up INPA software
4. Make sure both Circles on IGNITION & BATTERY are SOLID Black!
5. In my case also i have an E90 so i select F9
6. Dialog box pops up, Select ENGINE then Select MSD80 (In my case thats what i have again lol)
7. MSD80 Menu comes on and Select F9 again it would/should say "Systemdiagnossen" in german.
8. Another MSD80 menu comes on and Select; EOL-Injektor...SHIFT+F4!
9. Injector Menu comes on and now you're able to see all you're injectors Values, to see if theyre coded correctly or just code the new ones!
10. In my case i changed Injector 1. so i would select F1 for injector one, a dialog box pops up, and now we enter the code in...First we add the first 3 numbers from the injector on the top dialogbox so lets say the number is 582 we would enter 58.2 and then we enter the bottom 3 numbers, let say we have 221, we would enter 2.21 and press Enter.
It is okay if the Value changes by -0.1 or +0.1 incase of 2.21 it could change to like 2.20/2.22 It happened to me and a few members that done this numerous times, they told me that it happens and that is fine and the injectors Are coded in right as long as you punched them in correctly on the dialog box using inpa.
And thats it, we're done! Fire up the car and it should be all goody goody!
AGAIN!, CHEERS TO XBOX_FAN & VASSILALOV FOR THEIR GUTS AND EXTENSIVE SEARCH/WORK ON HOW TO GET THIS DONE AND MAKE A GREAT DIY!.
I only made this thread with a little more detail/wording for people like me that will get frightened to go inside and do it them selves and tried to add some better understanding on what to do or expect when you're taking this project on a DIY, other then that xbox_fan's and vassilalovs DIY are perfectly fine for anyone with a lil bit of mechanical knowledge!!!
Thank's & and i know its not written all perfect and all i just hope it helps someone down the road...had some free time at work and decided i'd make this thread.
PS; If i've forgotten something, please post or pm or mods edit thread on my behalf. Thx
02-22-2012, 09:10 AM #2
The translated MSD80.ipo should be ready this week! It will be epic!From all the things I've lost,
I miss my mind the most!
02-24-2012, 01:06 AM #3Member
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02-24-2012, 12:15 PM #4
02-24-2012, 12:46 PM #5
02-24-2012, 02:41 PM #6
Thank's, no problem guys. Lmk if i missed anything so it can be added.JB4+usb | BMS OCC | P3 Vent Boost Gauge v2 | BMS DCI | AMS FMIC | AR xi CL DP's | BT Tool | ER CP + Forge DVs | Cyba Quad Exhaust tips | M-Tech Rear & M3 Front Bumpers | Cyba Red Air Scoops | Blacklines | Vinyl Overlays | ACS Roof Spoiler | Matte Black Grilles | LED Side Mirrors | Rear Euro Fogs | Matte Black Window Trim | 30% Tints | Sports & Winter package | Black Leather Int. | Aluminium Trim | & a few other things...Tuned by: Burger Motorsports.
02-24-2012, 03:18 PM #7
Just checked my injectors, hoping that the newer ones were not coded. It appears that they were. Poop. My stuble at idle is most likely dirty valves.
02-24-2012, 09:04 PM #8
JB4+usb | BMS OCC | P3 Vent Boost Gauge v2 | BMS DCI | AMS FMIC | AR xi CL DP's | BT Tool | ER CP + Forge DVs | Cyba Quad Exhaust tips | M-Tech Rear & M3 Front Bumpers | Cyba Red Air Scoops | Blacklines | Vinyl Overlays | ACS Roof Spoiler | Matte Black Grilles | LED Side Mirrors | Rear Euro Fogs | Matte Black Window Trim | 30% Tints | Sports & Winter package | Black Leather Int. | Aluminium Trim | & a few other things...Tuned by: Burger Motorsports.
02-25-2012, 05:52 AM #9
02-25-2012, 07:09 AM #10
11-03-2012, 03:56 PM #11
Ok so I broke the metal plate that holds the injectors down today. i can't find that part on getbmwparts.com. does someone have the part number or can get it for me?2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed
11-03-2012, 04:29 PM #12Mods: Cobb v3, Aquamist hfs-4, BMS DCI, AR Design DP's, ETS FMIC, ETS Charge Pipe, HKS SSQV BOV, BMS CDV, BMS OCC, BMS Clutch Stop & ptf twin disc clutch.
11-03-2012, 05:14 PM #13
I got it. Thanks though!2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed